Bosch Dishwasher Shv55mo3gb Manualidades
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. 525 Answers SOURCE: I attempted to locate an answer to resolve the issue for you, but you have not provided me with enough information to access my service database. Please observe the TIP below, and post me back and I will be happy to assist you further. Should you require more extensive consultation to help resolve your complaint(s), you may contact me through our premium chat service. Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information. From this link you can identify your issue and order parts to repair your unit.
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue. Thank you, Dave E. (Illeagle) 'Your satisfaction is my personal reward' Posted on Jun 23, 2008. 3 Answers SOURCE: Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little.
When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened. Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water.
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The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run. STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety. To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly, the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little-smaller than a dime size-covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.) Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out-at least not without removing the entire machine-so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray.
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You'll probably feel the water-I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight.
Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release.
You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again. Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Montpelier Man Posted on May 09, 2009. 10865 Answers SOURCE: If the cycle doesn't complete, check these: Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-set temperature.
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What happens next, depends, as follows:. On some units, the pause is timed and the unit continues after the allotted time. On others, the cycle can't continue until the water reaches the higher temperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and the water isn't being heated (say, because of a problem with the heating element or thermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it never continues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the 'cycle problem' is fixed too. Timers don't often fail.
But if every other part of the dishwasher seems to be working properly and the timer knob seems to be stuck in one place-doing one function continuously-the timer may be at fault. Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is defective, replace it. Posted on May 31, 2009. The Control unit on your Bosch has a burnt out heat circuit. Just about every dishwasher has a number of 'thermal holds' during the wash and rinse cycles in which the controller waits for the water to be heated to a specific temperature. Most dishwashers check for a temperature rise over a certain amount of time and will shut down if this increase is not seen, however, Bosch does not employ this secondary check and the unit will run for as long as you allow.
The Control Unit on your dishwasher will need to be replaced. Being as Bosch is extremely properitary on their parts sells, it is best to actually talk to a parts supplier directly in order to ensure you are getting the correct controller. It is very important that the replacement controller is for your model #, including the /17 designation at the end. A xxxxxxUC/12 controller will not work on your model. The Control Unit is found in one of 2 places; 1) behind the Control Panel, or 2) at the lower right hand side of the unit towards the rear. Both are relatively easy to replace.
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Apr 16, 2011. It sound that the problem is cause the water switch level. The switch level is usually a diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub.
I am not familiar with your specific machine, but if you will open the rear panel you will find it easily. Clear tube first from any obstruction, In case it doesn't help, disconnect the wires from the unit (you should disconnect first machine's power cable!!!!!) and measure with a multi-meter on its tugs for continuity and disconnection while you are inhale and blow to its tube. In case it doesn't react, you should replace it. Aug 01, 2007.
If your heat cycle is not coming on, which it sounds like it is not, then you may have a problem with the heating system. There is a well known issue with many of the Bosch dishwashers that use the (266746) control module.
Basically, there is a relay (which is a kind of electro-mechanical switch) that is used to turn on the built-in heater. There is a solder joint on the main Printer Circuit Board (PCB) that allow electricity to flow to the heater, that joint often will melt away and burn the surrounding area of the PCB.
This is most likely a design flaw and appears to occur at about the 4-5 year mark. One way you can test for this is to run the onboard diagnostics routine that is programmed into the firmware of the micro-controller (brain) of the dishwasher. The way to do so it to press and hold the (Scrub Wash & Delicate/Econo) buttons at he same time and then press the on/off power switch to the on position. The LED lights above both those buttons should begin to flash, when they do, press them both again and the diagnostics program will start. It is a multi-phase program that will run for quite a while.
Once it finishes, if it is a heating problem, it will end with a number 2 code in the display. If this is so, then it very well maybe the solder-joint issue on the control module and it will need to be replaced. It runs $128.10 US directly from www.bosch-appliances.com. Apr 11, 2007.