Evinrude Manual Choke
Amazon.com: OEM BRP Johnson/Evinrude OMC Fuel Primer Choke Solenoid 5007356: Outboard Motors: Sports & Outdoors.
Your engine is much the same as mine. Sounds as if you are getting the fuel so I would start checkin all the areas that could cause spark problems. I assume you have checked the plugs, gap and such. An area that can cause issues is the coil for each plug.
Evinrude Parts
- Download and Read Evinrude Manual Choke Evinrude Manual Choke In this age of modern era, the use of internet must be maximized. Yeah, internet will help us very much.
- Download and Read Evinrude Manual Choke Evinrude Manual Choke In this age of modern era, the use of internet must be maximized. Yeah, internet will help us very much.
Many times the contact area where it attaches and grounds will become corroded causing weak spark. Simply cleaning this will often help. Also check all the connections at the starter etc. To ensure a good clean connection. Hope this helps you.
Almost forgot, do a decarb with Seafoam or some other decarb chemical. Many times this will help with the symptoms you describe. Quote: wmalloy382 - 4/10/2007 1:08 PM Its an old Evinrude, its what they do. Everyone who had owned one knows they are hard to start, but once you get em' running, they will run all day and night with little to no problems. Also, 'pumping the key' does nothing unless you are turning the key. To make the choke work, you have to push the key in AND crank the motor. I was skeptical of the 'pump the key' but I have heard so many different combinations.I don't have an operator's manual so never knew exactly how to start it.
They are real cranky on a November morning when it is 35 degrees. Thanks for all the info! This engine (including my old power head. This rebuilt head is 3 years old) was and is hard starting. I have found that once the engine fires and is just starting to run (actually, to sputter, you know), hitting the prime a few times definitely helps keep the engine running until it starts to idle normally. My problem is that it seems to flood whether I hit prime or not, before I spin the engine or while hitting the starter.
Would bad needle valves cause this or should I suspect the oil pump? Plugs are good and the grounds all look clean, but I'll clean them up just to be safe. I also use regular gas. I really don't want to and can't afford to use high test. Quote: Rolandt03 - 4/10/2007 9:27 PM the electric choke (or pushing in the key) turns the little flaps inside your carbs, pumping does nothing to help start the motor. I have found that sometimes the electric choke does not turn the flaps quite far enough once they get some age on them and have to revert to the old manual choke on the motor in order to get the flaps to turn all the way. The late model carb'd JOHNNY-RUDES used a primer solonoid, not choke butterfly's.
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If you have fuel pressure in the system, pushing the key in will spray fuel into the intake behind the reeds. The prime start system on those old engines was one of the most misunderstood in the industry. Lack of understanding contributes to the cold nature of the engines as much as the engine itself. This is how it works: The solenoid on the engine opens a valve allowing fuel to enter the primer lines. The primer lines are routed to various input points depending on the year model, but ultimately the fuel is injected into the intake air stream at some point through a small nipple.
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The enrichening fuel from the primer is only injected when the key is held in and fuel pressure is present. So far, so good. Fuel pressure is built up before the engine is started by squeezing the primer bulb. This way when the engine makes its first few revolutions fuel is sprayed into the intake. The incoming air flow then picks up that rich fuel spray and carries it somewhat atomized into the combustion chambers. As the engine cranks over the fuel pump takes over maintaining fuel pressure to the primer system.
If everything works, the engine should crank fairly quick. To keep a cold engine running the key will usually have to be held in for varying lengths of time. The operator has to learn his engine and what it needs. Now for the problems as I see it. The first thing most people do wrong is to skip the primer bulb step. This requires the engine to make several revolutions for the fuel pump to build up enough pressure to make the primer system work.
The next wrong thing I see some people do is to hold the key in without turning the engine over. If the bulb was squeezed we have raw gasoline being sprayed into the intake where it settles into pockets, cracks, and crevices. The engine needs to be turning over to create air flow to pick that fuel up while it is being sprayed, not after it is sprayed. Also, if you push the key in before cranking you have relieved the fuel pressure built up by the primer bulb, therefore the engine must turn over a few times before pressure can be built up by the fuel pump. Again, improper method creates a hard start. Now for the system itself and what can go wrong.
Manual Choke Carburetor
Sometimes the red lever on the primer is in the off position keeping the system from working. Other times it's in the on position flooding the engine. And then sometimes it just doesn't work. Bad solenoid, connection, key switch, etc. Another common problem is for one or more of the tiny nipples to get clogged up, then that cylinder, or cylinders, doesn't get a flow of fuel.
The engine will fire on the cylinders that are working, but then misfire on the one clogged, shutting off. That's when we cuss the cold natured old so and so. I use a tiny drill bit to open the nipple up once I locate the offender by removing the tubes one at a time and blowing through them. If it's open it will be hard to blow through, if it's clogged, it's impossible. Good luck guys.